Beranekaragam permasalahan di daerah pantai pada sebagian besar perairan di Indonesia, tidak terkecuali daerah perairan Bangkalan. Salah satu masalah yang ada di perairan pantai di Kabupaten Bangkalan berupa abrasi pantai, yang diakibatkan oleh transpor sedimen (Romimoharto, 2003). Pergerakan sedimen akibat pengaruh gelombang sangat menarik untuk diteliti karena memberikan dampak terhadap sedimen sepanjang pantai sekaligus berpengaruh terhadap stabilitas pantai, khususnya di perairan Kabupaten Bangkalan. Tujuan penelitian adalah untuk mengetahui pengaruh gelombang terhadap transpor sedimen di Pantai Utara Perairan Kabupaten Bangkalan. Penelitian dilakukan pada bulan November 2012. Substrat sedimen dianalisa ukuran butir dan statistikanya, untuk mengetahui jenis sekaligus karakteristiknya. Analisa gelombang diperoleh dengan mengkonversikan data angin menggunakan metode SMB (Triatmodjo, 1999). Transpor sedimen dihitung menggunakan persamaan CERC (Triatmodjo, 1999). Hasil penelitian menunjukkan karakteristik gelombang tiap bulan dalam periode 5 tahun (2008–2012) adalah tinggi gelombang terbesar 0,872312 m (bulan Januari) dan terkecil 0,484719 m (bulan November), tinggi gelombang pecah terbesar 2,747208 m (bulan Januari) dan terkecil 0,570084 m (bulan November). Analisa sedimen menunjukkan jenis yang beragam, diantaranya jenis silt, clay, sand, dan gravel; dengan statistika sedimen menunjukkan tingkat pemilahan yang baik sebesar 0,031 dengan tingkat kepencengan puncak sangat tumpul sebesar 0,06452 dengan nilai mean yang kecil. Hal ini diduga karena pergerakan sedimen oleh gelombang yang mendeposisikan ukuran butir sedimen dalam kisaran pendek dan proses seleksi butiran halus lebih banyak oleh butiran kasar yang selektif. Uji Regresi Linear Berganda menunjukkan nilai R (Corelasi determinasi) 0,993 dan R square 0,986 yang berarti data akurat serta terdapat hubungan antara tinggi gelombang maupun tinggi gelombang pecah terhadap pergerakan transpor sedimen.

There are various problems of coastal areas on most waters in Indonesia, including the waters area of Bangkalan. One of the problem that exists in coastal waters of Bangkalan is the coastal erosion caused by sediment transport (Romimoharto, 2003). Sediment movement caused by the influence of wave is very interesting to be studied because it affects the sediment movement along the coast as well as the stability of the coast, especially in the waters of Bangkalan. Objective of this study is to determine the effect of waves on sediment transport in the north coast of Bangkalan waters. The study was conducted in November 2012. The size and the statistical of substrate sediment is analyzed to determine its type and characteristics. Wave analysis is obtained by converting wind data using SMB method (Triatmodjo, 1999). Sediment transport is calculated using the CERC equation (Triatmodjo, 1999). The results showed that the characteristics of wave each month in the 5-year period (2008-2012) are the highest wave height is 0.872312 m (in January) and the lowest is 0.484719 m (November), the highest breaking wave height is 2.747208 m (in January ) and the lowest is 0.570084 m (in November). Sediment analysis showed various types of sediments, including silt, clay, sand, and gravel; with sediments statistics showing a good level of disaggregation, that is 0,031 with very blunt skewness level peak at 0.06452 with a little mean value. This is presumably due to the movement of sediment by wave that makes the depotition of the sediment grain size in the short range and more fine grain selection process because of selective choosing of coarse grains. Double Linear Regression testing showed the value of R (Determination Correlation) is 0.993 and R-square is 0.986 which means the data is accurate and there is a significant relationship between wave height and breaking wave height to the movement of sediment transport.

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